Before leaving for Panama, I completed a dental check up.  Nothing major was considered necessary.  My teeth were cleaned and old filling replaced.  Everything else checked out.

While a taking a bite of a sandwich at Multiplaza, I felt a sharp pain as a tooth broke.  The entire front enamel section of incisor chipped off the tooth, leaving the entire inside and the nerve of the tooth exposed!   Even worst it was New Years Eve.  Not a single dentist was open for the next couple days.  So, I sat with a half broken tooth and a steady supply of Advil. There was nothing else to do.

Sandra Kelly

My next realization was that I did not know a dentist in Panama.  But I did know Mary.  She is another retiree in Panama and a maven of information.   Surely, she had a couple of names.  However, before I had a chance to contact her names, my taxi driver Blas made an appointment for me.  We were off with the dentist waiting.

We arrived at small dentist office.  It was tucked away in a strip mall in El Dorado.  Within minutes of arriving, I was seated in a dentist’s chair and greeted by Dr. Katarzyna de Sanchez.  She was assisted by a pleasant young male dental assistant.  They completed an  examination of all of my teeth and quickly determined that the broken tooth had become infected and would require a root canal.  The immediate steps were to seal off exposed surface, treat the infection, and eliminate the pain.  Mission accomplished.  I left with prescriptions and a sealant surrounding the tooth with instructions to not bite on that side of my mouth and keep to soft foods — a wonderful excuse to eat Granclement ice cream.  Holding my breath, I went with the doctor to the desk for the bill.  My hour with her was $100.  The next appointment was set.

I had 2 more appointments with Dr. Sanchez to complete the work on the root canal and build a semi-permanent cap for the tooth. Total cost of all the work done $320.  Her suggestion is that I have a porcelain crown put on the tooth.  I have decided to do that but since I am returning for a visit to Seattle, to see if my dental insurance will cover the expense.  What I am certain of, however, is the work done to date even with my insurance would have cost more than $320.

Cost, of course, is not the only consideration for dental care.  Much more important is the quality of care.  The most pleasant surprise was that I received quality care.  Dr. Sanchez spoke more than enough English for me to understand what I needed to know.  She made the entire process painless.  The temporary cap construction looks so much like a real tooth that it is undetectable.  Indeed that experience is more than enough to consider cancelling my dental insurance and opted for dental work in Panama.  Who would have guessed?

Casco Viejo is an exceptionally diverse neighborhood.  Within an area of 12 blocks there are the very wealthy  and the very poor, living next door to each other.  Since the Presidential Office and several embassys are located in Casco, it is the hub of the very powerful and yet its streets are filled with forgotten souls.  There are expats from Europe, Canada, and the United States, and those who have never travel outside this neighborhood.  There are persons with white skin, black skin, and every hue in between.  There are the very old and the very young.  There are beautifully restored colonial  buildings with modern conveniences and buildings that passing time left in rumble.  There are pedigreed pampered pets and too many stray dogs and cats to count.  Street vendors sell food from carts within feet of some of Panama’s best restaurants.  Presidential guards and police make the area secure but there are vagrants whose claim to abandoned buildings and streets still remains.  It is an area with one of the most significant histories in all of Latin America and an area that currently is most threatened by Panama’s quest for new importance.  I love this place!!!

Sandra Kelly

One of the things that I love most is the people of Casco.  As I walk from place to place,  I exchange greetings with almost all that I pass and hugs from those that I have met.  Rarely do I sit more than moments alone in cafe before I am joined by someone who will visit awhile. I exchange pleasantries with the police on the street, most of whom now recognize me.  Blaine at Super Gourmet calls me “Mumsy” and my name or Mama is called out several times a day.  Indeed there is now a workman that blows me a kiss when I am out walking and another who chats about his work because I remarked that building he is painting has become beautiful.  And there is Danny, a young Panamanian contractor,  who when he drives by offers me a ride and promises to invite me for dinner.

The friendliness that I encounter each day is not surprising.  So many of the expats that I have met in Panama chose Panama because of its people.  Most are welcoming and will listen intently as those of us with few words in Spanish attempt to be understood.   What, however, was surprising, was to be cared for when in need from those I had only exchanged a few greetings.

I arrived in Panama exhausted from weeks, no months, of going non-stop.  I also hit the ground running here in order to keep up with my 27 year old son.  Climate, time zone, and living arrangements  were huge adjustments.  There were projects that Evan had lined up for me to begin with short deadlines.  I also moved 3 times the first week.  One evening all of this impact hit.  Mid way through a delicious dinner, I felt flush.  I walked outside hoping it was merely climate adjustment.  I felt nauseated.  In a blink,  things went from bad to worst, I was shaking and could barely hold my head up.  It was that so sick feeling that praying to die makes sense.  I did not want to make a scene or call for help.

Then the most surprising thing happened.  Two men , Mario and Enrique, who spend their evenings on the streets on Casco, came over to check on me.  Mario quietly sat down next to me.  Enrique who speaks English attempted to determine what was the matter. I was too sick to speak and was becoming more ill with each passing minute.  Quietly without asking Mario left me in search of my son which required him to enter a restaurant where it likely he is not welcome.  Enrique continued to be my guard and assure me help was on the way.  Mario returned with Evan and Blas (my driver).  They drove me quickly home but very nearly took me to the hospital first which I refused simply because I did not want to move.

So many of us make judgements with a lack of understanding and without compassion.  I have no knowledge of Mario’s or Enrique’s live circumstances or events.  What I do know is that both men are considerate and honorable.  I was easy prey who was most fortunate to have two exceptional men of character come to my aid.  They will forever be mis amigos.

My memory of most words vanished years ago.  Worst, I listen slow so when anyone speaks fast, I only pick up a few words.   This has meant, I have little ability to communicate in Spanish speaking country.  Frustrating indeed for an extrovert who craves talking with everyone she meets.  I need at a minimum enough Spanish speaking ability to go beyond text book greetings and simple phrases.

Sandra Kelly

My son, Evan, had taken language immersion in Guatemala several years ago.  He learned a enough of the language to launch his Latin America adventures.

Perhaps, a Spanish school would work for me.  I would emerge myself in Spanish in Boquete.    Evan had arranged for his friend Itzy who is a teacher to tutor me.  I would take lessons four hours per day – two in the morning and two in the afternoon – for a week.  Admittedly not nearly enough time, but hopefully it would create momentum.

Itzy began by asking me to write a list of what I wanted to be able to say.  This was a much more practical approach than learning from a book organized into sections of contrived conversations.  We were also able to skip over things I already knew – granted not a lot to skip.  The process continued when the lesson was dedicated to verbs.  I picked the verbs that I would most use.  Learning became so much more relevant!  Even more amazing, was that I actually began to understand when Itzy spoke to me in Spanish.

The real thrill of this came at the end of the week.  While in Boquete, I stayed at a private residence.  My hostess spoke only limited English.  Our conversations for most of week were pleasantries.  At the end of week, we had a long conversation.  We discovered commonalities of social work, backgrounds of case loads, and much more.  There were, of course, words spoken by each of us that the other could not understand.  The more important thing was it was a real conversation!  More than enough motivation for me to keep learning.

Back in Casco, there is a conspiracy to keep me practicing Spanish.  My driver Blas each day insists that I learn a new word.  I attempt to tell him in Spanish that at one word a day, I will speak Spanish when I am a 100.  Evidently I did not quite say this because he understood that it will take me  100 years to learn Spanish.  It was close enough for it to become our joke.

I am getting better but need to keep taking lessons and practicing. If I pick up the pace with two words a day, well, I should be fluent well before a cententinal birthday.

Panama has one of the world’s best retirement incentive programs. Almost everywhere and almost on everything there is a discount offered to those who have this documentation. I’m currently applying for one.

Sandra Kelly

* A Pensionado Visa is restricted to individuals from foreign countries who have secure retirement incomes, and are intending to live in Panama.
* Individuals receiving private pension funds must be 50 years of age or older.
* The amount paid by the pension must be at least $750 per month for individuals investing a minimum of $100,000.
* Be paid a minimum of $1000 per month if no property is purchased. (Couples are able to pool funds to meet minimum requirements if applying together)
* Offers discounts on goods and services from 10-50% percentage.
* Request must be processed through an attorney in Panama.
* Documentations are required – income, age, criminal record, & health records.
* It also offers a limited duty free shipping of furnishings and a car to Panama.
* It is a lifetime visa.

Here is what I don’t know:

* How long does it take to process — heard everything from 2 to 8 months?
* What is an reasonable attorney fee for an experienced attorney? People have told me they’ve paid as little as $750 and as much as $2000.
* Where can the medical exam required be done? Will my attorney appointment me a doctor?
* Can my police record be faxed?
* Should I use my discounts at Mom-n-Pop shops?
* Can I buy international airline tickets with it?
* Is it really worth it?

Hope that you guys can help me fill in the blanks. Also, any other tips would be helpful. Muchas Gracias.

I am from the Coffee Capital of America, Seattle.  Where coffee is truly appreciated.   In fact, we proudly boost that we are responsible for the popularity of gourmet coffees, expresso stands, and trendy coffee cafes.   Enjoying coffee to me is every bit as wonderful as savoring a fine glass of wine is to someone from France.

Every time I’ve come to Panama I travel to Boquete.  I love its cooler climate and lush green hills, but also go to sample fresh coffee.  Frankly there is nothing more wonderful than having freshly roasted and brewed coffee made from carefully grown beans.  This year was no exception.  Once again, I traveled to Boquete anxious to again find the perfect cup of coffee and learn more about the production that makes some coffees so special and others… well, not.

Sandra Kelly

I jumped at the opportunity to join Dos Jefes Coffee Tour.   Dos Jefes is located at an approximate altitude of 4600 feet and above the town of Boquete.     Its owners are expats, Rich and Dee Lipner, from the United States that a few years back fell in love with Panama as well as a prime piece of coffee producing property that had not been worked in years.  They arrived without any prior coffee expertise.  Dee would learn everything about planting and Rich everything about production.  Boy did they learn!

As much as wanting to produce coffee, the pair wanted to preserve their farm and environment.  Their finca which produces Cafe Luna is operated on the lunar calendar and beans are dried on racks in the sun.  It is an impressive operation.   Our tour allowed us to pick a few beans and taste them in a raw state.  We peaked into the drying racks which had been carefully wrapped because rain was on the way.  We saw rows of pots of young coffee plants that would be used to replace those that were losing production or traded for a plant more productive in this area.   All the while, Rich was explaining the details of growing, the world coffee market, and the importance of environment.

We headed back to the terrace, where Rich set up a taste test.   Three cups of coffee were poured.   One was a light roast, the second a medium, and the last a dark roast.  We were asked to determine which one of the unmarked three suited our personal taste best.  We were also provided a taste chart to see if we could discern tastes within the coffee – just like wine. Before taking the test, I was certain that I would pick the light roast.  I like my coffee smooth and a bit sweet without adding sugar.  Imagine my surprise when I picked DARK ROAST!!!   Café Luna from Dos Jefes is DELICIOSA and was recently voted Boquete’s “Best Coffee”!   It is well worth another visit to keep a fresh supply.

Next came a very special treat.  We enter the roasting room where I was chosen to be the roaster.  I measured the beans, set the temperature, and waited patiently as the roaster reached the exact temperature.  I put the beans in the roaster and monitored their progress by listening to pops and monitoring the color.  I nervously prayed that I would not ruin the batch or break the machine.  We were all invested as the roasted beans were poured out.   Rich measured us generous packets of Café Luna that we had roasted for souvenirs.   How special is that!

This is a Boquete must do tour.  It is a wonderful opportunity to learn about coffee growing and the coffee industry.  You will leave with a new appreciation for the  rich tasting liquid,  the people who bring it to us, and likely a new brand favorite.   You will get more than your money’s worth.

[Show as slideshow]

When the Rooster Crows!

It’s been 3 weeks since I’ve began my Panama retirement.   During this time I have trained to handle reservations; developed a space plan and decorating scheme for Evan’s apartment;  undertaken my first house-sitting assignment; started a cross-fit training program; learned more than 155 Spanish words; shopped till I dropped; and ran more errands than I can count.  So much for the leisurely life of a retiree!

My day begins early which is a surprise to me.  All my life, I have preferred to ease into the day.  I dreaded morning meetings but was likely to be still going strong when most  were ready to call it a day.  Now, I wake up at 5:30 AM to the sound of a rooster.  Yes, there is a actually intercity rooster somewhere near my high-rise apartment in downtown Panama City — strange, but nonetheless true.

Sandra Kelly

After the cock-a-doodle-do, I check emails and water the balcony plants.  I’ll shower and dress in a exercise outfit.  Around the time I finish a light breakfast, Evan’s favorite cab driver, Blas is waiting for me downstairs.  Every morning Blas picks me up.  He drives to the old town of Casco Viejo.  Along the way, we practice speaking – his English, my Spanish.  Incremental daily improvements are made.

In Casco, I head straight to cross-fit training.  My trainer Andy guides me through walking,  stretching,  and various weights exercises.  I’ve discovered long forgotten muscles and lost about 4 pounds.  My goal is 10 more before Christmas.  Moreover, my energy level seems to soar all morning. Good thing because the rest of day will be hectic.

Most days after showering and changing after cross fit, I will head to Super Gourmet.  More than simply a deli/coffee shop/market, Super Gourmet is a hub of Casco Viejo.  It is the place to go for to meet other ex-pats in the neighborhood, local business persons, and newcomers.  Often I will bring my lap top to check reservations over a cafe con leche or lunch.  I love that I will be interrupted with “Hola, Sandra,” and engage in short chats which are becoming more frequent as I meet more people.  Blaine, the owner, who hails from New Orleans calls me “Mumsy”.  It feels like home.

By mid afternoon my eyes begin to cross.  I crave a siesta.  In less than the time it takes to stretch out, I am napping like a baby.  I’m hoping that for one hour there will be nothing to disturb me.  I love my siesta!

Sometime between late afternoon and evening, Blas will take me back to the apartment.  I will do a few chores or go out to dinner, write, read, or watch television before showering and falling asleep.  As a long time night owl who rarely closed her eyes before midnight,  I am amazed to be sleeping soundly most evenings before 10 PM.  If you are thinking it is due to the time zone change, keep in mind by Seattle time I am asleep by 7 PM!

My experience as a retiree in Panama has just begun.  Soon I will have more free time.  Furnishing the apartment and learning the various reservation and hotel systems, will be complete.  With the apartment done, reservations should then only occupy few hours of my day.  I will then want to take on other projects.  On the top of that list is my application for a Pensioner’s Visa and learning Spanish.  Panama’s Pensioner’s Visa offers great discounts.  Learning Spanish will actually allow me to understand what they are.

I will keep you all informed of my progress and activities as I learn to live in Panama.  It is the greatest adventure of my life.

Subscribe to EyeOnPanama.com.

• Que xopa = common expression meaning Whats up?, Whats new?. Sometimes shortened to just xopa, the equivalent of “Wassup”. Reverse of “Que paso?”.
• Diablo rojo = large city bus, lit. “red devil”. Also known as “liquid paper”, “borrador” (eraser)in the sense that they often travel at high speeds and cause accidents or run over people.
• Awebao = taken from the root word ahuevado (egg-headed), it can be either derogatory in its use (idiot) or friendly, (dude) depending on the tone. Pronunciation varies depending on the speaker either awebado, awebao, or aoaooo. Is is one of the most common words among Panamanian youth.
• Arranque = means to go out, party and get drunk.
• Huevear = “To egg around”. An expression used to describe the action of not doing anything productive. (hoy solo vamos a webiar= today we aren’t going to do a thing) it is used by youth and comes from “awebao”. also used as a synonym of hanging out. (see “parkear”)

• Cabrear= (ver.) it’s one of the must common verbs in Panama, it is used when someone is getting tired of doing something or when someone is bothering a lot. (Eg. “Estoy cabreado”=I’m tired of this, “Me tienes cabreado”=I’m Fed Up with you.
• Mili= From militarely. To do something with disregard for authority, odds, or common sense. Ex. “Dale mili”= go anyway.
• Awebason= Awebason or Ahuevason expression used for things that are foolish or just dumb.
• Chucha = vulgar way of referring to the female reproductive organ. This word can be used in dozens of connotations. It can denote anger, happiness, surprise, sadness, speechlessness. Examples: Chucha, que bien me fue! Chucha que mal me fue! Chucha no se como me fue! Estoy en chucao (I`m angry).
• Pichazo= A lot of. Ex. “Un pichazo de gente”= A lot of people.
• Cuara= Cuara is derived directly from the English word “quarter”. Also applicable to the word “dime” ($0.10 coin)
• Culo de Botella= “Ass (bottom) of the bottle (coke bottles). Referring to extra thick eyeglases.
• Casa Bruja= Very poor house (shanty) made out of wood scraps and/or zinc built on invaded lands.
• Quenque or Kenke= Marihuana or pot, ganja, week, reefer, joint.
• Chacara= “A countryman’s bag”. Commonly used as a nickname for balls (testicles).
• Alla onde uno: From the tv show ‘Hecho en Panama’, it means “from where one is”, usually means the place where the ‘campesinos’ come from or grew up, their hometown. Ex: Tu eres de alla onde uno?
• tas pescando = a person who is going to go out and. pick up someone of the opposite sex/sexual partner.
• Casa del culo = A place that is very far away. Middle of nowhere.
• Chantin= Home, House. Example: “Vamos pa’ mi chantin” (Let’s go to my house). From English “Shanty”.
• Chiva = literally means female goat, but it also means “small bus”. Not to be mistaken with a “diablo rojo”. (eg. Me voy en chiva pa’ Chitre)
• Fula/o =blonde
• Guilla’o = pot high, stoned, baked
• Pilla = from the verb “to look” or “Gotcha”. Mirar, Observar, atrapar. “pilla esto” = “look at this”, “te pillé” = “I Gotcha”.
• Cinta = “Story”. term of cocoa and bochinche (hey te tengo una cinta! hey, i have a story!)
• Quemar = to be unfaithful. betray. to cheat.
• Una pinta / una fría = a beer (una cerveza); una fría = “a cold one”; cerveza is also used.
• Un blanco = cigarette (cigarillo).
• Keton = a box of cigarette.
• Solido= “Solid”. Referring to something that is cool or awesome.

• Jumarse = used commonly instead of emborracharse (to get drunk)
• Vaina = used to fill out blank spaces in conversations, also used like “cosa” (thing). Example: “dame esa vaina” meaning “give me that thing”.
• Palo = one dollar (buck) used as in “me costó 5 palos” (it cost me 5 bucks) Used also for “tree” Example: voy a mear atras del palo. “I’m going to pee behind that tree”
• La botaste = meaning that you did something awesome, great or cool (comes from the English phrase: you hit it out of the park).
• Gallo = meaning awful, distasteful, sucky, used commonly to express cheap objects. (Eg. Ese restaurante estaba bien gallo. = That restaurant was very sucky.)
• Jo! = expression used to denote afirmation, surprise, exaggeration, admiration or anything that shocks depending on the used tone. (Eg. Jo! Esa negra esta hermosa. = That black woman is beautiful.) A shortened version of Carajo!
• Vamos pal cuero = means to let’s go at it or let’s do it, meaning to perform any non particular action.
• ta = short for “está” (is), as in “ta bueno” (it’s good)
• pa = short for “para” (for), as in “esto es pa’ ti” (this is for you)
• En pinga = un-cool, un-interesting, not hip. “Tas en pinga” (You suck)
• Tranque = Traffic jam. Example: “Llegué tarde por el tranque” (i was late because of the traffic jam)
• Hasta la verga = Extremely drunk or fucked up. Also: Hasta la zapatilla, hasta la wacha, hasta la wacharneta, hasta la requete
• Pelar el bollo = To die.
• Plena = Panamanian version of reggaeton, which came first. Reggaeton came from Panamanian plena. Example: “Dj pon plena” (Dj play some plena)
• Chuzo!!!! = Non vulgar way of saying “chucha” to mean Damm it, ####, ####, etc. Same concept as saying “fudge” instead of “####”.
• Pilinki= a cheap person (persona tacaña)
• Offi= Means O.K., comes from “oficial”.
• Pichi= cocaine
• Rochadera= Make out session.
• Enculado= Very in love, especially at the beginning of a relationship. Example: Rodolfo está enculado.
• Osea = a way of expressing surprise, disgust; commonly used by yeyes (see “yeye”)
• Nueve letras= Popular name for the highest selling brand of Seco in Panama, Herrerano, which has nine letters
• Salió el fulo= The sun just came out.
• Bajapanti= Popular and cheap “wine” called Night Train Express. Literally means, “panty remover”.

***** This list was created by wikipedia*****

YeYe = a wealthy person who likes to show off a lot. Preppy boy/girl.

Racataca = A very unsophisticated person – the stereotype usually involves listening to bad reggae dancehall music (or reggaeton), wearing gold teeth, wearing clothes that look like stuff gringo rappers threw in the garbage and were picked up by piedreros, naming their children with strange, multisyllabic composite names like SURISABEL or

YAMIURKA (examples of which you’ll find painted on the windows of most DIABLO ROJOs)

El Chino = a corner store (bodega), lit. “the Chinaman”. Originates from the fact many Chinese migrated to Panama to help build the Panama Railroad, and many

corner stores are owned and run by Chinese immigrants. Other countries have similar social patterns, for instance, the “Arab” corner store of France.

Maleante= “Gang member, criminal, etc.” Racataca’s male mate (see “racataca”). Usually belongs to a gang in the ghettos.

Zambito/a: In the region of Azuero ( The Provinces of Los Santos and Herrera) is a slang meaning dude, Child O Teenagers (Boys) Zambita fem. slang meaning due Child O Teenagers (Girls)

Rejeros=Refers to a group of men who only hang out with males. They usually go out in packs to try to pick up women, but often fail at doing so. During weekends they will typically hang out at a guy’s house and drink between themselves. Also, they can be spotted at strip clubs too. A man who belongs to this group is know as a “rejero”. The word became popular after a TV Show (La Cascara) ran a skit based on four fictional rejeros.

Agua Cero= Heavy, constant rain that often causes rivers of water to run down the street.  Usually last for 20-40 minutes, at most an hour.

Maricon = butterfly, gay.

Chombo = derogatory term use to refer to black people.

Cholopop = Person from the countryside, trying to impress by wearing rocker outfits.

Chambón= A clumbsy person

Chifiar= To ignore a person. Ex: Chifea ese awebao (see “awebao”) que es un loser- Don’t invite that guy because he is a loser.

Borriguero= A low ranking employee. Lizard Ameiva ameiva. In the contructions works is the person that do all the hard work.

Chapot= From the English “Shaped up”. Used to refer to someone that is very well dressed. As in “Estas bien chapot”.

Chuchita= Someone who is always being taken advantage of by another.

Pipi sweet= Womanizer or a “Don Juan” (Sweet dick).

Brother surfer= Stereotypically, how surfers call each other.

La kenton= When someone promises you something and does not deliver. “Carlos me hizo la kenton, me dijo que iba traer dos botellas y solo trajo una”. Syn. la pacheca.

Tortillera: Disrespective form to say lesbian.

Congo= Someone who is always taken advantage of, an idiot.

Piedrero = A homeless person that has a deep adiction to “crack cocaine”. Crack in Panamanian Spanish is often called “piedra”(“stone”/”ice”). Can also be used to tell a person that the way they are poorly dressed and not good looking.

Pela= slang meaning “any” woman or chick. (Eg. Vi a esa pela en la discoteca anoche.= I saw that woman in the disco last night.)

Pelao= slang meaning dude. (Eg. Yo conosco ese pelao. = I know that dude.

Cueco/a= Syn:of gay and lesbian. Despective form to say gay ( cueco-man) o lesbian(cueca-

woman).

FIRI-FIRI= very skinny man or woman (Ana es una firi-firi). On its superlative form BIEN FIRI-FIRI (extremely skinny!).

Cangreja= “Female crab”. An unattractive woman.

Manzanillos = A rich/famous person’s entourage and leech off of them. Buddies that follow and take advantage of someone for interest (ex. roberto duran).

CHACARON(A) or CHACARUDO(A)= superlative for CHACARA means a very lazy man (or woman) or someone who relies in everybody else to solve his (her) problems.