Take a look below. You’ll see a young man on your far left confused and vulnerable at Panama’s Flash Mob in Multi Plaza. That was me.

Panama Flash Mob

Seeing that photo changed my life for two reasons: First, it dashed any dreams I might have had of becoming a professional dancer. Even though I think I possess better-than-average rhythm for a white boy, this photo proved otherwise. Secondly, I realized I had became uncomfortably chubby. Too many fried empanadas and patacones had transformed my normally athleticly built body into something that resembled soft chewed bubble gum. Changed was needed.

Evan Terry Forbes

So, I started Casco’s Crossfit (Top Level Gym). My early adopter friend Dan from OfertaSimple.com had been one of the first persons to sign up with Top Level Gym when they relocated to Casco. Dan convinced me to join. “Evan, don’t make excuses. Just do it.”… So, I did.

From the beginning, I liked Crossfit’s concept: Multi joint combination anaerobic and aerobic exercises for 15-20 minutes. The routines combine continuously vary in order to constantly surprise your muscles. I’m in and out, and on with my day in less than 25 minutes.

My first week was rough. Muscles that I never knew existed were sore. But, by weeks two and three I began to see improvements. Most exciting to witness was that body flab started to turn firm again! In four weeks, I was in some of the best shape of my life.

In 15 minutes of Crossfit, I burn more calories than in 1 hour and 15 minutes of running. In 15 minutes of Crossfit, I’d gotten a more well rounded exercise than in an 1 hour and 15 minutes in the PowerClub.  Too many distracting fake boobs bouncing on the treadmills. Crossfit is short and works your ass out!

Casco Crossfit is not for everyone. I don’t even try to recruit my friends who are the “I’ll start working out mañana” types. Half ass commitments don’t cut it. Procrastination doesn’t let your body acclimate to the routine. Pretending to exercise by riding the elliptical machine for 27 minutes at the Powerclub or “running” once a week in Parque Omar is best for them. Crossfit doesn’t want them anyways.

See La Mama and I’s Casco Crossfit photos here.

Before leaving for Panama, I completed a dental check up.  Nothing major was considered necessary.  My teeth were cleaned and old filling replaced.  Everything else checked out.

While a taking a bite of a sandwich at Multiplaza, I felt a sharp pain as a tooth broke.  The entire front enamel section of incisor chipped off the tooth, leaving the entire inside and the nerve of the tooth exposed!   Even worst it was New Years Eve.  Not a single dentist was open for the next couple days.  So, I sat with a half broken tooth and a steady supply of Advil. There was nothing else to do.

Sandra Kelly

My next realization was that I did not know a dentist in Panama.  But I did know Mary.  She is another retiree in Panama and a maven of information.   Surely, she had a couple of names.  However, before I had a chance to contact her names, my taxi driver Blas made an appointment for me.  We were off with the dentist waiting.

We arrived at small dentist office.  It was tucked away in a strip mall in El Dorado.  Within minutes of arriving, I was seated in a dentist’s chair and greeted by Dr. Katarzyna de Sanchez.  She was assisted by a pleasant young male dental assistant.  They completed an  examination of all of my teeth and quickly determined that the broken tooth had become infected and would require a root canal.  The immediate steps were to seal off exposed surface, treat the infection, and eliminate the pain.  Mission accomplished.  I left with prescriptions and a sealant surrounding the tooth with instructions to not bite on that side of my mouth and keep to soft foods — a wonderful excuse to eat Granclement ice cream.  Holding my breath, I went with the doctor to the desk for the bill.  My hour with her was $100.  The next appointment was set.

I had 2 more appointments with Dr. Sanchez to complete the work on the root canal and build a semi-permanent cap for the tooth. Total cost of all the work done $320.  Her suggestion is that I have a porcelain crown put on the tooth.  I have decided to do that but since I am returning for a visit to Seattle, to see if my dental insurance will cover the expense.  What I am certain of, however, is the work done to date even with my insurance would have cost more than $320.

Cost, of course, is not the only consideration for dental care.  Much more important is the quality of care.  The most pleasant surprise was that I received quality care.  Dr. Sanchez spoke more than enough English for me to understand what I needed to know.  She made the entire process painless.  The temporary cap construction looks so much like a real tooth that it is undetectable.  Indeed that experience is more than enough to consider cancelling my dental insurance and opted for dental work in Panama.  Who would have guessed?

Most people take vacations at the beach.  My friend Jon (a former Peace Corps volunteer  living in NYC) had another idea. He convinced me to visit Jake’s (another former Peace Corps member) farm:

Jon: “Evan, lets get outta the city.”
Evan: “Where do you wanna go?”
Jon: “Wanna do some farming with Jake?”
Evan: “Hmmm… Sure.”
Jon: “Vamos pues!”

Evan Terry Forbes

Jake had been working on a special type of reforestation project in Panama’s Azuero Pennisula. It had been a long time since the 3 of us had shot the shit together.

Jon and Jake are different from most Gringos in Panama.  They speak excellent Panamanian Spanish.  They are also incredibly knowledgeable about tropical ecology.  Lastly and most impressively, they both comprehend the various and complex cultural nuisances of Panamanian society better than 98.7% of the Gringos in Panama.  They’re Pana-Gringos.

Jon and I arrived to Albrook Bus Terminal at 6am.   The bus ticket for the 5 hour trip to Las Tablas cost $9.75.  It didn’t make sense to rent a car.

At Las Tablas we transferred buses.  But before we did, Jon knew of a great local eat.  The family style restaurant was self-seating with a limited menu.  Basically, the waitress tells you what kitchen is cooking — take it or leave it (my kinda restaurant).  $5 covered our meal.  Parts of Panama are still bien barato.

With full bellys we boarded the next buscito heading to Pedasí.  There, we fetched a cab for the remaining 20-minute ride to Jake’s pueblito in Los Asientos.    We asked the others on the bus what the approximate charge for the cab needed to take us the rest of the way would be.  The consensus cost among the locals was $6.75.  Later, the taxi driver repeated the same price.  I love the feeling of NOT being treated like a tourist.

Los Asientos is on few people’s maps.  The small pueblito sits just about an hour’s horse ride beyond Pedasí (the mode of transportation for many).  The few Panamanian city folks and foreigners that do recognize Los Asientos are likely to do so only because their cell phones lose signal while driving towards Playa Venao.  Los Asientos is definitely not a tourist destination.

Jake was walking towards his house when we arrived.  He looked like he had spent the entire day at the farm.  His traditional Santeño sombrero was soaked with sweat.  His was wearing an old long sleeve Oxford shirt and full length pants to protect against the sun. On his feet were a hefty set of work boots with tiny plant seedlings clinging here and there.   Jon and Jake exchanged Santeño “AJUUUEEEE!!” yelps.  I’m still practicing mine.

First things first,  Jake popped the top off a couple cervezas bien frias.  We caught up with each other’s life happenings as we sat on Jake’s small front porch.  Children on bikes and men on horseback occasionally passed by.  A complete change from the city.

Eventually, our conversation centered on the general macro reforestation effort throughout Panama.  Both Jon and Jake have several years of elite schooling focused on development studies as well as several years of swinging machetes on Panamanian farms.  It was a highly educated discussion.

After a couple beers, Jon and I now wanted to see an actual project.  We were there to experience the reforestation effort at the micro level. Jake had been working closely with a local farmer on his 2 hecture cattle pasture.   It was a demo plot to show the skeptics in the area the benefits of agroforestry.  Jon grabbed the sunscreen and I enthusiastically carried the machete.  We set out to see Jake’s project.

We walked for about 30 minutes.  Along the way, Jon and Jake described the state of Azuero. The rare tropical dry forest has been severely deforested by extensive clear cutting and intensive cattle ranching.   The native ecosystems and the biodiversity of the area have been nearly wiped out.  Jake has been working with local farmers to implement silvopastor systems.  Arguably, it’s the best chance to reforest the Azuero.

A silvopastoral system integrates trees into cattle pasture systems in a mutually beneficial way.  Semi reforesting lands utilizing beneficial forage and fodder species in living fences and inside pastures,  more efficient rotation of grazing lands will start to restore lost ecosystems.  Cattle are still able to graze. And, in more productive systems that provide not just the calories of pasture grass, but also proteins from tree leaves and fruits.  As a result the cattle have an improved diet which increases fertility as well as meat and milk production.  Furthermore, increasing trees on degraded landscapes restore invaluable ecosystem services.    Bottomline: It’s a win-win situation for the farmers and the environment.

Even though silvopastoral systems seem sensible, implementation is difficult.  Farmers are resistant to change.   Remember, traditionally, farmers view the forest as their adversary.  Generations of back breaking hours have been spent clear cutting those hillsides.  A deforested pasture is a sign of victory.  An overgrown pasture is seen as not keeping your land “limpio” (well maintained).  You’re an embarrassment inside the community.   Yet, today, international organizations are trying to tell farmers to…. replant them?  Estas loco!

To compound the cultural misunderstanding, there is an unusual language barrier.   City boy Spanish spoken by a urban Panamanian championing the sustainability of silvopastoral systems won’t sell to local farmers. Ivy-League American interns are even worse.   Local farmers don’t culturally identify with them or find them credible.  As Jake summarized ,“Evan, not enough people speak Santeño nor understand the traditional and cultural constraints of implementing development projects.”.  This fact is often overlooked inside the international development ivory tower.

*** Santeño is a person from Los Santos.

On the other hand, Jake is Santeño.  Sure, Jake is a Gringo who earned a prestigious masters degree in Forestry.  Yet, Jake chooses to live amongst the locals (instead of the highly populated Gringo areas of Pedasí and the nearby beaches). Jake walks, talks, and acts like a Santeño.  He has locals sharing the latest Los Asientos gossip with him as well as picking him up while he is hitchhiking along the highway.  I’ll say it again, my boy Jake is Santeño.

This is apparent in Jake’s silvopastoral sales pitch to Santeños: “En su sistema convencional, con solamente pasto mejorado su ganado están comiendo arroz pela’o. Con un sistema silvopastoril con leucaena, botón de oro y pasto mejorado, su ganado están comiendo un plato completo (el arroz, la presa, lentejas, y plátanos fritos). Como nosotros, el ganado quiere comer bien también.”

(In your conventional system, with only improved pasture,  your cattle are eating plain rice. With a silvopastoral system with Leucaena, Mexican sunflower, and improved pasture, your cattle are eating a complete meal (rice, the dam, lentils, and fried plantains). Like us, the cattle need to eat well too.)

People are taking notice of Jake’s work. Silvopastoral systems are out performing surrounding pastures.   The farmer who volunteered for the project can’t wait to bring his cattle to graze.  Former skeptics are now asking Jake for agricultural advise during conversations at the local tienda.  Jon and I are excited to see our boy doing such a good job!

See photos of the trip here.

Casco Viejo is an exceptionally diverse neighborhood.  Within an area of 12 blocks there are the very wealthy  and the very poor, living next door to each other.  Since the Presidential Office and several embassys are located in Casco, it is the hub of the very powerful and yet its streets are filled with forgotten souls.  There are expats from Europe, Canada, and the United States, and those who have never travel outside this neighborhood.  There are persons with white skin, black skin, and every hue in between.  There are the very old and the very young.  There are beautifully restored colonial  buildings with modern conveniences and buildings that passing time left in rumble.  There are pedigreed pampered pets and too many stray dogs and cats to count.  Street vendors sell food from carts within feet of some of Panama’s best restaurants.  Presidential guards and police make the area secure but there are vagrants whose claim to abandoned buildings and streets still remains.  It is an area with one of the most significant histories in all of Latin America and an area that currently is most threatened by Panama’s quest for new importance.  I love this place!!!

Sandra Kelly

One of the things that I love most is the people of Casco.  As I walk from place to place,  I exchange greetings with almost all that I pass and hugs from those that I have met.  Rarely do I sit more than moments alone in cafe before I am joined by someone who will visit awhile. I exchange pleasantries with the police on the street, most of whom now recognize me.  Blaine at Super Gourmet calls me “Mumsy” and my name or Mama is called out several times a day.  Indeed there is now a workman that blows me a kiss when I am out walking and another who chats about his work because I remarked that building he is painting has become beautiful.  And there is Danny, a young Panamanian contractor,  who when he drives by offers me a ride and promises to invite me for dinner.

The friendliness that I encounter each day is not surprising.  So many of the expats that I have met in Panama chose Panama because of its people.  Most are welcoming and will listen intently as those of us with few words in Spanish attempt to be understood.   What, however, was surprising, was to be cared for when in need from those I had only exchanged a few greetings.

I arrived in Panama exhausted from weeks, no months, of going non-stop.  I also hit the ground running here in order to keep up with my 27 year old son.  Climate, time zone, and living arrangements  were huge adjustments.  There were projects that Evan had lined up for me to begin with short deadlines.  I also moved 3 times the first week.  One evening all of this impact hit.  Mid way through a delicious dinner, I felt flush.  I walked outside hoping it was merely climate adjustment.  I felt nauseated.  In a blink,  things went from bad to worst, I was shaking and could barely hold my head up.  It was that so sick feeling that praying to die makes sense.  I did not want to make a scene or call for help.

Then the most surprising thing happened.  Two men , Mario and Enrique, who spend their evenings on the streets on Casco, came over to check on me.  Mario quietly sat down next to me.  Enrique who speaks English attempted to determine what was the matter. I was too sick to speak and was becoming more ill with each passing minute.  Quietly without asking Mario left me in search of my son which required him to enter a restaurant where it likely he is not welcome.  Enrique continued to be my guard and assure me help was on the way.  Mario returned with Evan and Blas (my driver).  They drove me quickly home but very nearly took me to the hospital first which I refused simply because I did not want to move.

So many of us make judgements with a lack of understanding and without compassion.  I have no knowledge of Mario’s or Enrique’s live circumstances or events.  What I do know is that both men are considerate and honorable.  I was easy prey who was most fortunate to have two exceptional men of character come to my aid.  They will forever be mis amigos.

Recently, a friend from Costa Rica stayed with us in Casco.  She was basically the girl version of me:  college age traveler who fell in love with a foreign country.  She stayed and started a small business in Latin America.  She’s just a bit older, and a lot better looking than me.

Gringa: “Evan, I’ve lived in Costa Rica for more than 10 years.  I speak Spanish with a Costa Rican accent.  I date Costa Rican men.  Some of my best friends are Costa Rican.  Gringos don’t get more Tica (Costa Rican) than I am. Punto.” (period)

Me:  “True.”

Evan Terry Forbes

Gringa: “Yet, I still have to send my assistant to price barter.  I can’t buy fruits at the market or contract someone to build me a retaining wall without paying significantly more.”

Me: “Yeah, me too.”

Gringa: “I’ve just learned to accept this as a Gringo ex-pat fact of life.”

Gringos are perceived as rich.  All of them.  It doesn’t matter if you are a social worker or a celebrity, an entrepreneur, or a retiree living off a skinny social security check.  You are rich.  As the saying goes, “Gringos siempre tienen plata.” (Gringos always have money)

This rich Gringo stereotype stems from a couple things:

First, North Americans and Western Europeans make more money.  For example, there are per capita income discrepancies: USA is 47k.  Panama is 13k. Even if you earn just below USA poverty line ($22,350), you can vivir bien (live well) in Latin America.

Next, simply being in Latin America.  Traveling inherently means that you have excess income.  It doesn’t matter if you travel on a shoestring budget or a private jet.

Finally, Gringos tip frequently. It’s part of our culture.  On the other hand, Latinos do not.  The ability to tip, again, suggest that you are rich.

Just face it.  You are a rich Gringo.

While being perceived as rich helps you date women, it doesn’t help live a day to day life.  Price discrimination based on being Gringo becomes frustrating for ex-pats.  My savviest Gringo friends share tricks and tips on how best to get the non-inflated price.  It’s like a little game.

Here’s an example:  I wanted to paint a room in mi casita.  A painter quoted me $100.  I then sent a Panamanian co-worker.  She was quoted $60 for the exact same project.  I tipped her $10 for saving me $40.

Business school and common sense has taught us that cutting out the middle man is key to price savings.  Yet, my time in Latin American has taught me different.  By ADDING a middle man you save money.  True story.

Me: “So, how’s your español coming along?”
Friend: “Basically fluent.”
Me:  ”Really?!”
Friend:  ”Yep… I understand it better than I speak it.  But, I’m basically fluent.”

{insert waitress}

“Bienvenidos Señores.  Que desean tomar?”

Evan Terry Forbes

My friend looks at me with a confused stare,  ”Como como como?…. Evan, what is she asking me? I can’t understand this darn Panamanian accent.”.

Let’s be honest:  It’s not the accent.  You, my friend, are confused by the waitress’ rudimentary question.  She was asking you (in a slight variation) what you would like to drink.  Rosetta Stone and street practice has taught you to listen for the verb Querer = to want, “Que quieren tomar”. Instead, the verb she used was Desear = to wish, “Que desean tomar?”.

Let’s be more honest:  You’re not fluent.  Rosetta Stone and some Spanish classes have taught you the basics.  You can order food and explain a little bit about your homeland. Maybe you can even understand the flight attendant’s safety instruction speech in both English and Español.  This is exciting.  Yet, it’s far from fluency, fren.

Take the true fluency test.  Go to a Latino dinner party.  Make sure there is no other Gringos, or any person who speaks even a spick of English.  Not even anyone who’s intrigued by you being a foreigner in LatinoLand.

So, how do ya do?   Are you participating in the group conversations?  Do you understand the inside jokes?  More importantly, are you genuinely laughing at them?  If you answered yes to those 3 questions, then that’s pretty dang fluent.

Realize that a lifetime might never achieve this level of fluency.  A good friend of mine’s mother was born in Colombia.  She has lived in Houston for 40 years.  Her English has an accent, but she speaks well.  Yet, depending on the language, her personality changes.  In Spanish,  she is bubbly as a bee.  On the other hand, in English she is quiet and reserved.  It’s almost as if she is a completely different person.

Now, let’s be honest about my Spanish:  Recently, I was sharing a few maracuya flavored mojitos with friends.  The topic of conversation was home construction en puro español (pure Spanish).  I listened attentively.  But, I was lost (I did learn the word for bulldozer – excavadora).

I wasn’t a contributor to conversation. I definitely wasn’t spontaneously laughing along with the group.  And, I definitely, definitely wasn’t crack’n any jokes.  I WAS a wallflower.

People have a tendency to overgrade themselves in their Spanish/language abilities.  The more Spanish/language you learn, the more you realize how much more there is to learn.   Let’s just be honest about it.

My memory of most words vanished years ago.  Worst, I listen slow so when anyone speaks fast, I only pick up a few words.   This has meant, I have little ability to communicate in Spanish speaking country.  Frustrating indeed for an extrovert who craves talking with everyone she meets.  I need at a minimum enough Spanish speaking ability to go beyond text book greetings and simple phrases.

Sandra Kelly

My son, Evan, had taken language immersion in Guatemala several years ago.  He learned a enough of the language to launch his Latin America adventures.

Perhaps, a Spanish school would work for me.  I would emerge myself in Spanish in Boquete.    Evan had arranged for his friend Itzy who is a teacher to tutor me.  I would take lessons four hours per day – two in the morning and two in the afternoon – for a week.  Admittedly not nearly enough time, but hopefully it would create momentum.

Itzy began by asking me to write a list of what I wanted to be able to say.  This was a much more practical approach than learning from a book organized into sections of contrived conversations.  We were also able to skip over things I already knew – granted not a lot to skip.  The process continued when the lesson was dedicated to verbs.  I picked the verbs that I would most use.  Learning became so much more relevant!  Even more amazing, was that I actually began to understand when Itzy spoke to me in Spanish.

The real thrill of this came at the end of the week.  While in Boquete, I stayed at a private residence.  My hostess spoke only limited English.  Our conversations for most of week were pleasantries.  At the end of week, we had a long conversation.  We discovered commonalities of social work, backgrounds of case loads, and much more.  There were, of course, words spoken by each of us that the other could not understand.  The more important thing was it was a real conversation!  More than enough motivation for me to keep learning.

Back in Casco, there is a conspiracy to keep me practicing Spanish.  My driver Blas each day insists that I learn a new word.  I attempt to tell him in Spanish that at one word a day, I will speak Spanish when I am a 100.  Evidently I did not quite say this because he understood that it will take me  100 years to learn Spanish.  It was close enough for it to become our joke.

I am getting better but need to keep taking lessons and practicing. If I pick up the pace with two words a day, well, I should be fluent well before a cententinal birthday.

Panama has one of the world’s best retirement incentive programs. Almost everywhere and almost on everything there is a discount offered to those who have this documentation. I’m currently applying for one.

Sandra Kelly

* A Pensionado Visa is restricted to individuals from foreign countries who have secure retirement incomes, and are intending to live in Panama.
* Individuals receiving private pension funds must be 50 years of age or older.
* The amount paid by the pension must be at least $750 per month for individuals investing a minimum of $100,000.
* Be paid a minimum of $1000 per month if no property is purchased. (Couples are able to pool funds to meet minimum requirements if applying together)
* Offers discounts on goods and services from 10-50% percentage.
* Request must be processed through an attorney in Panama.
* Documentations are required – income, age, criminal record, & health records.
* It also offers a limited duty free shipping of furnishings and a car to Panama.
* It is a lifetime visa.

Here is what I don’t know:

* How long does it take to process — heard everything from 2 to 8 months?
* What is an reasonable attorney fee for an experienced attorney? People have told me they’ve paid as little as $750 and as much as $2000.
* Where can the medical exam required be done? Will my attorney appointment me a doctor?
* Can my police record be faxed?
* Should I use my discounts at Mom-n-Pop shops?
* Can I buy international airline tickets with it?
* Is it really worth it?

Hope that you guys can help me fill in the blanks. Also, any other tips would be helpful. Muchas Gracias.

The Casco Killer

Lovers of Casco Viejo (Casco), I have troubling news.  I’ve caught the killer of Casco.  Sure, this photo looks like an innocent steel survey platform.  But, don’t be fooled.   On the portable platform they are plotting to kill Casco.   Digital devices stationed here will release data detailing a plan that wraps a 1950s-style superhighway around Panama’s historic peninsula of Casco.  This will be the death of the Casco —  te lo jurro, aweboa! (I swear to you, a-Panamanian-word-that-I-have-no-idea-how-to-translate).

Some background:  Casco is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  So too are Stonehedge, Machu Picchu, and Vatican City.  There are approximately 1000 in the world, and Panama has 5.  UNESCO is a prestigious international designation of Panamanian history and culture.

Evan Terry Forbes

UNESCO has warned Panama’s politicians about the Cinta Costera 3.  In fact, they’ve officially sent a 54 page report that specifically mentions it (see page 6).  UNESCO frequently interacts with double talk countries.  They don’t have time for games.  If you renege on your commitment, they simply pull you from their internationally renowned list.  Casco will be no different.

UNESCO designation is important to Casco.  It has spurred the colonial district’s revitalization.  Prior to UNESCO’s arrival in 1997, Casco Viejo was Panama’s forgotten neighborhood.  The majority of its buildings were deserted.  Civil services had been neglected.   Gang violence was rampant.  As my local friends tell me, “Chuleta!  Antes no podias andar en el Casco!” (Pork Chop!  Before you couldn’t walk in the Casco). Casco’s soul was on life support.

Today, times have changed. UNESCO’s designation has reinvigorated Casco.   Careful historic restoration throughout the neighborhood is on the move.  Don’t take my word for it.  Walk the calles of Casco.  The progress is palpable, Papa.

This momentum has energized Casco.  This once sometimes-shaddy neighborhood, is now Panama’s cultural heartbeat.  Come for Jazz Fest weekend or attend an Art Block crawl, you’ll be impressed.  Better yet, treat yourself to a Cena Cine at Diablo Rosso, or check out Rolando De Sedas’ trademark ladies painted on the walls of Villa Agustina.  Casco has culture.    Like a local computer programmer friend who rents a desk at The Casco Station told me, “All the coolest things in Panamanian culture are happening in Casco.”.

UNESCO has brought Casco back to life.  It’s exciting to see.  So, why kill it?

Technically speaking, building a Casco-killing highway is against the law.  Both international accords  and local Panamanian law.  Killing Casco Viejo is economically suicidal for two reasons:

First, it sends the wrong message about strict Casco’s historical guidelines.  If the government itself breaks Casco laws, then why should anyone else follow them?   Expect to see builders adding extra floors and other non-historical elements to Casco’s buildings.  Once the historical integrity is jeopardized, Casco’s authentic allure will be dead.

Without authenticity, the neighborhood will begin a downward spiral that will only accelerate. Its historical value will be gone. It will no longer attract artists, musicians, writers, or passionate community members committed to pumping Casco’s cause. Its culture will be gone. With no historical integrity or community contributors, the tourism money will go away. Casco will revert back to Panama’s forgotten neighborhood.  Que lastima! (What a damn shame!).

Secondly, breaking the law is bad for Panama’s international image.  Currently, Panama is running ads declaring,  ”We Are Open For Business”.  The goal is to attract more foreign investment to the isthmus.

However, defying laws and public institutions and instilling investor confidence are mutually exclusive.  It reinforces the perception held by two of the world’s most respected news organizations – The Economist and New York Times – that Panama is rapidly becoming corrupt to its core.  This small country is turning into a kleptocracy.

If Panama wants to be, “Open For Business” it must have strong public institutions.  Laws need to be followed.  Otherwise, Panama cannot achieve its stated goal:  to become the business hub of The Americas.

Let me give you an example:  You are a foreign investor who is interested in investing in Panama. You believe Casco is a good investment.   It has UNESCO’s international prestige that will attract tourism for years to come.  Plus, its historical integrity is protected by both national law and international accords.  You confidently open a business/invest capital in a country that enthusiastically courts foreign investment. You’ve picked Panama.

Suddenly, the government breaks its own laws and international commitments.    It unilaterally forces an infrastructure project that removes the UNESCO designation.   This has a negative impact on your investment.  Your confidence is Panama’s legal system is gone.  Investors don’t like countries who presidents act like dictators.  Just ask Venezuela.

Bottomline:  Don’t kill Casco.  It has been reborn.  The progress has come too far and means too much to Panama’s history, culture, and general economy to be put to death.  Por favor, deja El Casco en PAZ! (Leave Casco in peace).

Help Save Casco Here.

I am from the Coffee Capital of America, Seattle.  Where coffee is truly appreciated.   In fact, we proudly boost that we are responsible for the popularity of gourmet coffees, expresso stands, and trendy coffee cafes.   Enjoying coffee to me is every bit as wonderful as savoring a fine glass of wine is to someone from France.

Every time I’ve come to Panama I travel to Boquete.  I love its cooler climate and lush green hills, but also go to sample fresh coffee.  Frankly there is nothing more wonderful than having freshly roasted and brewed coffee made from carefully grown beans.  This year was no exception.  Once again, I traveled to Boquete anxious to again find the perfect cup of coffee and learn more about the production that makes some coffees so special and others… well, not.

Sandra Kelly

I jumped at the opportunity to join Dos Jefes Coffee Tour.   Dos Jefes is located at an approximate altitude of 4600 feet and above the town of Boquete.     Its owners are expats, Rich and Dee Lipner, from the United States that a few years back fell in love with Panama as well as a prime piece of coffee producing property that had not been worked in years.  They arrived without any prior coffee expertise.  Dee would learn everything about planting and Rich everything about production.  Boy did they learn!

As much as wanting to produce coffee, the pair wanted to preserve their farm and environment.  Their finca which produces Cafe Luna is operated on the lunar calendar and beans are dried on racks in the sun.  It is an impressive operation.   Our tour allowed us to pick a few beans and taste them in a raw state.  We peaked into the drying racks which had been carefully wrapped because rain was on the way.  We saw rows of pots of young coffee plants that would be used to replace those that were losing production or traded for a plant more productive in this area.   All the while, Rich was explaining the details of growing, the world coffee market, and the importance of environment.

We headed back to the terrace, where Rich set up a taste test.   Three cups of coffee were poured.   One was a light roast, the second a medium, and the last a dark roast.  We were asked to determine which one of the unmarked three suited our personal taste best.  We were also provided a taste chart to see if we could discern tastes within the coffee – just like wine. Before taking the test, I was certain that I would pick the light roast.  I like my coffee smooth and a bit sweet without adding sugar.  Imagine my surprise when I picked DARK ROAST!!!   Café Luna from Dos Jefes is DELICIOSA and was recently voted Boquete’s “Best Coffee”!   It is well worth another visit to keep a fresh supply.

Next came a very special treat.  We enter the roasting room where I was chosen to be the roaster.  I measured the beans, set the temperature, and waited patiently as the roaster reached the exact temperature.  I put the beans in the roaster and monitored their progress by listening to pops and monitoring the color.  I nervously prayed that I would not ruin the batch or break the machine.  We were all invested as the roasted beans were poured out.   Rich measured us generous packets of Café Luna that we had roasted for souvenirs.   How special is that!

This is a Boquete must do tour.  It is a wonderful opportunity to learn about coffee growing and the coffee industry.  You will leave with a new appreciation for the  rich tasting liquid,  the people who bring it to us, and likely a new brand favorite.   You will get more than your money’s worth.

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