Dining in Casco:

Upscale.

Manolo Caracol: No thinking is required. Simply sit back and enjoy 10 Latin inspired tapas courses that are  always delicious and fresh.   Food is harvested locally.   Walk-in and make a reservation (required). Located on Avenida Central and Calle 3. $$$$

Las Clementinas:  A throwback to the 1930s hey-days of Casco Viejo.  (Las) Clementinas is famous for fish and cocktails.  Try the Seafood Sampler with the Martini containing freshly picked Basil from the garden.  Also,  Clementinas has one of the best Sunday brunches in Panama City ($27/per head).  Located on Avenida B and Calle 11.  $$$$

Evan Terry Forbes

Ego:  Nothing is more quintessentially Casco Viejo than dining late night on a plaza.  Look no further than Ego (yellow umbrellas).   We love the Fried Ceviche, Ego Salad, Chicharrones, and the brownie that has cheese on it!  Located on Plaza Bolivar on Avenida B.   $$$$

Mid Range.

Mercado del Marisco (Fish Market): This was Anthony Bourdain’s first stop in Panama – so it must be good! It’s located about 15 minutes outside of Casco walking along the ocean pedestrian path.  Try a number of the different style ceviches from the booths outside.  Otherwise, pick your own fish from the market and have it cooked upstairs at the restaurant.  $$

Aye Carmela.  We are currently obsessed with this mid range charming restaurant!  Portions are big and the prices are small!  Try the Greek Salad and Patacones (very Panamanian).  Located on Calle 9 and Avienda B.  $$

Caffe Per Due.  For those that love authentic Italian thin-crust pizza, this will be a treat.  Very affordable good food.  The desserts are homemade and yummy.  Avienda A and Calle 2. $$

You-Can’t-Be-Making-Money, Cheap.

Mama Chefa: If Casco were to have a grandmother, Mama Chefa would be it.  The 40 year resident of the neighborhood serves lunch out of her very own kitchen (11am-12:30am).  You will likely rub elbows with Panama’s government workers as you munch down on lovingly prepared $3 Panamanian lunch.  It’s located on Calle 4 between Plaza Bolivar and the Presidential Plaza. $   (Chefa’s has no external sign – so ask,  “Dónde está Mama Chefa?”)

Pollo de Papo:  Papo is another Casco character.  The jolly Casqueño occasionally sings Michael Jackson and steps to Salsa while grilling a mean BBQ chicken!   Papo sets up lunchtime shop in front of his house on Calle 3 and Avienda B.   Bring $4 and beat the noon rush.  $

Coke-a-Cola:  A former favorite of American G.I.’s during the Canal Period, Coke-a-Cola has seen better days.    For those hankering for a no frills, local place to eat breakfast, this is the place.  Buy the La Prensa local newspaper and sip on a cafe con leche.  Located near Santa Ana plaza on Avenida Central (follow the trolley tracks).  $

Pritty Pritty Fonda:  A Spanglish play on the English word “Pretty”.  You don’t get more local than their chicken, rice and beans for $3.  Located next to Las Clementinas on Avienda B. $

Nightlife Casco:

Relic: Cleverly tucked under a youth hostel to throw off those without any sense of adventure,  Relic has become Casco Viejo’s de facto late night destination.  This underground bar/club attracts a young crowd and those that think young.   Calle 9 and Avienda B.

Tantalo:  This new addition to Casco has quickly become the place to go.  The uncovered rooftop bar offers sweeping views of PTY as well as unlimited space necessary to fit the inflated egos of Panama’s Who’s-Who.  Expect to pay a cover. Calle 8 and Avenida B.

Havana Panama:  The best salsa space in all of Panama.  Expect to pay a cover too.  Down the hill from Relic.

Di Vino:  Casco’s swanky wine bar is a great place to sip a glass of wine with a special someone or mix and mingle.  Avenida A and Calle 4.

La Vecindad: A no thrills local hip-hop open joint.  Dip into the $8-glass-of-fine-wine world at Di Vino.   Afterwards,  walk across the street and dip into the $1.50-national-beer-and-Reggae world at La Vecindad.  This polar opposite social-economic situation is the essences of Casco Viejo.

Top 15 things to do in Casco Viejo.

1.  Eat something from a street vendor (Bollo, Empanada, Tamale, Quail egg, churro, pina).

2.  Watch Casco’s most talented play futbolito at 4pm.  Calle 4 and Avienda A – head towards the ocean.

3.  Wait outside the Presidential Palace to meet the Panama’s President,  shake his hand.

4.  Buy a ice cream from Granclement.  Ask to try every single flavor. They will not get mad!

5.  Get your shoes shinned in Plaza Santa Ana – $0.75!

6.  Catch a show at the National Theater (near Plaza Bolivar), or at least go in for a look.

7.  Work out at the ocean view, local Casco gym.  Calle 4 and Avienda A – kinda hidden inside the Santa Familia building.

8.  Buy fresh fruit from overflowing carts on Plaza Santa Ana.

9.  Accidentally walk into an abandoned building and ask to see a nice one.

10. Look for 2 of the 5 mansions in Casco Viejo.  The other 3 have fallen down.

11. Sit on a bench in Plaza Catedral around 4:00pm while watching the sunset across the building facades.

12.  At 4:45pm walk the length of the Cinta Costera while nibbling a Dixie cup of ceviche.   See the skyline contrast between the new and the old city as well as teenagers romancing on park benches.

13.  Barter with street vendors for souvenirs.

14. Go inside the beautiful indoor plaza at Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores on Plaza Bolivar.

15.  Get a massage ($40/hour) from super bilingual Andy: 6145-8064.

5 Casco Viejo Reads:

Who Killed Casco Viejo?

5 ways to blend into Casco Viejo

Me Voy Pa’l Chino

Good Lives in a Second Floor Apartment

Defending Panamanian Street Food

Time does fly.  The six weeks I spent at home in Northwest Washington, seemed like a few days.  Nonetheless a lot was accomplished.  We found new renters for my house there within a short time.  Whew!  I completed dental and doctor check ups.  We successfully shopped for items that are to find in Panama.  And most importantly, I spent time with family and friends, dedicating most of it to  my daughter and my 15 month old granddaughter, Addi,  who jumped from her crib into my arms.  I even managed to help my daughter organize her new home while doting on Addi.  The time literally flew by.

It did not take long to switch gears upon my return to Panama.  Blas, my driver, was patiently waiting for me as I exited customs.  Vamos, Sandra a Casco Viejo!   Evan was, of course, waiting and I was warmly welcomed back by the staff at Los Cuatros Tulipanes.  And in no time, I was back in the swing of things which allows me to meet guests and sometimes help staff.

Everywhere I went for the next few weeks, I was welcomed back.  I have made many friends in Casco.  Even more than I might have counted before returning and realizing that people here notice and care.  The guard at the museum who I pass almost everyday, the owners and their staffs at restaurants, the pharmacist, street vendors, children, and workmen have all welcomed me back.  Indeed even a man that I pass when ducking out the back way and the maid who cleans the floors of building that I am in daily welcomed me back.  This was amazing to me since very often people do not notice when a neighbor is gone on vacation.  It is another thing that I love about Casco.  It is a community.

There are many people that I miss in the Northwest.  But I know there lives are busy and spending time with them is limited.  Spending time with friends here is also limited but less so.  The difference seems to be frequency of contact.  In the Northwest, to see most of my friends requires that arrangements be made.  Many live too far to walk over to see.  It is even rare to run into any at a store or restaurant.  Here the opposite is true.  Everyday I pass friends on the street and meet new people.  We are known customers and recognized neighbors.  No matter where we go we bump into friends.

It is a very good feeling.  Afterall, in the words from Thoroughly Modern Millie, “tis sad to all alone in the world.”  To which can be replied, “but impossible to be all alone in Casco.”

“My experiences with the local cuisine and dining scene in Panama City were vastly different and much less romantic than this optimistic bit of narrative in our trusty Lonely Planet guidebook. Granted, I spent just 2.5 days exploring the city…”

Evan Terry Forbes

Brian, you should have blasted an email to local bloggers titled, “Hey, I’m doing a Panama City street food article for USA Today. Help me, POR FAVOR!”. Surely, someone in PTY would have volunteered.

A great candidate would have been ThePanamaReport.com’s Matt Landau. He is a blogger that lives in Casco Viejo (Casco) and often posts about food. In 2.5 days, Matt could have given you Casco’s low down.

Street food everywhere? No, hardly anywhere.

Again, this is where a local foodie guide would have been useful. He/she would have informed you that Casco’s street food scene is mobile. For example, Señor Peru sells morning empanadas from his motorbike in Plaza Cathedral. By 11am, he’s gone. Papo cooks up a helluva BBQ chicken. Yet, the grill is only smoking during the weekday lunch rush. A dedicated man on a bike pedals around warm cups of Chichime at 5pm. Casco has street food. You just need to know when and where to look.

Roadside fresh fruit stands and/or vendors with carts overflowing with pineapples, mangoes, bananas, coconuts? Nope.

An angel lady sells freshly sliced mangos for half of the year. She sits under the shade on a Plaza Bolivar park bench adjacent to Simon Bolivar elementary school. However, mangos are not in season right now. During the downtime, she carries around a box of bottled water.

Also, almost all the chinos offer bananas and pineapples daily. It’s not as novel as a overflowing cart of fruits, but it is fresh.

Mounds of beans and rice covered in onions, served with sides of boiled yuca and saccharine-sweet plantains, just like at my favorite Latin American joint in New York on the corner of Spring & Lafayette Streets? Not even close.

Comparing any Developing World city with New York City is just unfair. In NYC, one can eat better Italian food than in Italy; better Brazilian food than in Brazil; and better homemade food than Grandma herself makes! NYC has the world’s highest concentration of talented, energetic culinary kings and queens. New Yorkers, too, have godly high expectations.

In Casco Viejo, the ongoing influx of expat-run restaurants is helping to drive prices up and “cheap and cheerful” hole-in-the-walls out.

This is a simplistic view of Casco’s revitalization/gentrification. True, Casco Viejo has seen a surge of foreign entrepreneurs (Americans, Venezuelans, Italians, etc) arrive on the restaurant and nightlife scene. However, the majority of these newbies are not driving out “cheap and cheerful” local Panamanian establishments.

Remember that Casco Viejo was nearly abandoned in the last half of the 20th century. Swaths of city blocks of buildings were left dilapidated and deserted. The restoration of these uninhabited facilities didn’t displace the “cheap and cheerful”. Instead, they displaced trash and trees that had been accumulating inside the property.

Furthermore, Casco Viejo didn’t (and doesn’t) have high population density. Every street corner of Hanoi is crowded with small plastic stools surrounding a hot pot of Pho. Yet, every square inch of Hanoi is densely populated. This creates a strong demand for cheap eats.

Casco doesn’t have even the neighborhood density (yet) to sustain more than a handful of street vendors.

Panama City’s food scene was kind of a letdown.

Fair statement. You’re entitled to your opinion. But, let’s see where your taste have been formed. According to your travel article page, you’ve spent considerable time in Asia – specifically Bangkok.

Asian and Latin American cuisines are considerably different. Signature Asian street dishes are loaded with greens and lack hearty hunks of red meat and starches. On the other hand, Latin American street food is heavy on both:

Argentina/Uruguay: All sorts of red meats cooked on la parrilla.
Costa Rica: Gallo Pinto the staple breakfast.
Cuba: Ropa Vieja
Colombia: Arepas
El Salavdor: Pupusas
Peru:  Freakn’ 3,000 different types of potatoes!

A Pescetarian will have a very hard time in most parts of Latin American.

I do applaud Brian for giving his honest opinion. Travel literature is too god damn fluffy and politically correct! Brian, just next time you come to Casco, stay with us. I’ll take you on the cool kid’s tour of Casco. Food included!

Panama has a reputation for poor customer service.  Yet, discussing this topic is polarizing:  Grumpy Gringos broadly generalize that ALL customer service in Panama as awful. Not true.   I employe/work with Panamanians who give excellent customer service. I have received great customer service.  Great customer service in Panama does exist.

On the other hand,  SOME hyper sensitive Panamanians denounce any critique made by a foreigner with a “Go home Gringo!”.   This to is stupid.  Poor customer service adversely affects all consumers – Panamanians and Gringos. Everyone should get fired up.

Evan Terry Forbes

Let’s compare two similar businesses to illustrate my poor customer service point.  Recently, I visited Panama’s Price Smart and Seattle’s Costco.  The two retailers have nearly identical bussiness models:  A warehouse club that allows members household items in bulk.  Their store layouts and products are indistinguishable.   The only obvious differences are the company colors and the fact that Costco dishes out mucho mas yummi food samples. I’ve been a long time member at both.

Yet, the customer service experience is vastly different.   Let’s dissect it:

Costco:

I arrive at Costco with two tasks to accomplish:  1) Help return my friend’s bike, and 2) Fill my fridge with food.

My friend bought a mountain bike months ago.  He had used it a couple times.  Now,  he wants to return it without a receipt.   To complicate matters,  he accidentally forgot the combination to his after-market bike lock.  It’ll be strapped on the bike forever.   Yet, even with these two complications, all goes well.

A 30 year old-ish customer service representative (Ms. Customer Rep): “Hello! How can I help you guys today?”
Me:  “He wants to return the bike. However, we’ve forgotten the combination to the lock and he has no receipt. Is that going to be a problem?”
Ms. Customer Rep: “No problem.  Let me pull up your record….  Yes, it appears you bought the bike three months ago.  I’ll take care of everything.  Would you like store credit or cash?”
My friend: “Store credit is fine.”
Ms. Customer Rep: “Great.  Here is your store credit.  I hope you have a wonderful day!”
Me: “Outstanding.”

Ms. Customer Rep acted upbeat and professional.  She solved our problem quickly and to our satisfaction.   In a matter of minutes,  we were spending more money in Costco.    Costco’s return policy and its people are so fantastic that shoppers will overpay for their merchandise.  That includes me.

We fill our cart with groceries and bellies with food samples.   Time to checkout.    The lines are long, but they’re moving briskly.  Again, each checkout operator looks to be over 30 years old, mature, and on the move.  In addition, there are floor helpers to assist shoppers – a couple managers floating too.  Any checkout disruptions are handled instantaneously.

Mr. Register: “Did you find everything okay today?”
Me: “Yes.  The muffin samples were particularly delicious.”

While Mr. Register and I banter back and forth, a floater starts boxing our order.  The checkout is a smooth, synchronized process.

Mr. Register: “All set.  Your total was $XXX.  I hope you have a great day!”

As I leave the store I’m feeling satisfied and even more loyal to Costco.

Price Smart:

I need to accomplish three tasks:  1) Return a computer. 2) Get a record of a receipt. 3) Buy gift certificates.    Unlike Costco, my experience wasn’t pleasant.

A 21 year old customer service rep (Ms. Joven): “Buenos dias.  Como le puedo auydar?” (Good day.  How can I help you?)
Ms. Joven’s body language is different from Costco’s Mr. Customer Rep.  Ms. Joven looks uninterested. A smile has long left her face.

Me:  “I need to return this computer. It’s broken.”
Ms. Joven: “Solo hay 15 dias para devolver la mercancia. Y usted debe que tener la factura.” (There is only 15 days to return the merchandise.  And, you must have the reciept)
Me: “I know.  Yesterday I unsuccessfully tried to return the computer without la factura.  Lesson learned.” I hand her the receipt.
Ms. Joven: “Presenteme su identificación.” (Present me your ID)
Me:  “Do you see my photo on the membership card?  Anyways, here is an additional form of ID.”
Ms. Joven: “Cuál es su….” (What is…)

A series of questions ensue.  She further verifies my membership and carefully examines my factura.  I feel like she is suspiciously searching for a flaw.  Any reason NOT to take back my 7 day old broken computer.   This is a far different experience from Costco’s liberal (and friendly) return policy.   Ms. Joven is acting like an insurance adjuster trying to deny a claim.

Me: “Also, Ms. Joven, could you do me another favor.  Could you please print out a facutra from a past transaction.  I lost it. I need documentation of it for 2011 accounting purposes.  It would be registered under….”

Ms. Joven cuts me off.

Ms. Joven: “El gerente no está aquí.” (The manager is not here)
Me: “Ok.  When will he be back?”
Ms. Joven: “Mañana.”
Me: “No bueno.  I’m here today.  Mañana is pretty busy for me. Could you help me out?”
Ms. Joven: “Lo siento, pero NO ES posible.”  (Sorry, but it is not possible)
Me: “Wouldn’t looking up my membership record provide a list of my past transaction?”
Ms. Joven: “No se puede.” (No I can’t)
Me: “Maybe another manager is on duty?  They could help me out.”

I’m feeding Ms. Joven possible solutions.  She is not being creative or helpful.

Ms. Joven: “No…  Bueno, si.  Pero ella está ocupada.” (No…Well, yeah.  But she is busy)
Me: “You say “no” mucho.”

Now I’m just being a smart ass.

Sensing my attitude Ms. Joven says, “Bueno. Dejame ver si alguien me puede ayudar.” (Well, let me see if there is someone who can help you).

A couple minutes later, a manager comes down.

Me: “Hey Mr. Manager.  I’m Evan.  I have a business account with you.  Could you help me out?”
Mr. Manager: “Hmm…. realmente, no estoy trabajando. Y tengo que irme. Pero, este vez, voy a auydarte.” – He emphasis the fact that he is doing ME a favor.  (Actually, I’m not working and I have to leave.  But, THIS TIME, I can help you)
Me: “Chucha de tu madre!  Tell me “Con mucho gusto!” and find my receipt with a smile!  My company spends 10k/year at your store!”  is what I think.  I actually say, “Thank you sooooo much Mr. Manager. You’re toooo kind!”

I proceed to shop.  At checkout, the lines are long too.  It’s quincena (payday).  Quincenas in Panama are on par with the busiest shopping days in the USA – think Black Friday.

At the register, I give the register lady (Ms. Register) full disclosure.  My order will be complicated because A) business accounts takes several steps in order to comply with government regulations.  B) I’m ordering gift certificates – which seems simple, but Price Smart makes it super complicated.

Me: “We can do all of this?” I need reassurance.
Ms. Register:  “Con mucho gusto!” (With pleasure!)

I love when they say that.

Ms. Register is doing an excellent job.  Not only are we proceeding at a rapid pace, she is laughing at my jokes.  I’m feeling happy.  Ms. Joven and Mr. Manager had set my service expectations very low.

Yet, there is a small snag:  The gift certificate code is nowhere to be found.  Ms. Register presses the assistance button.  Nobody comes.  She scans the floor for a floater.  Nadie (nobody).   Management has imcompanitenly not scheduled additional help during the busiest day of the month.  Ms. Register is on her own.

Pressure is mounting.  We’ve been stalled for multiple minutes.  Shoppers waiting in line are tapping their toes impatiently. Ms. Register is forced to leave her post.  She seeks the certificate code sola.

She returns 5 minutes later.

Ms. Register: “Perdóneme, Señor.” (Please forgive me Sr.)
Me:  “It’s not your fault.  You are doing a great job. Management let you down.”

As I left Price Smart, my feeling about their customer service was one of frustration coupled with a slight onset of rage.

If I’m jefe of Price Smart tomorrow, I immediately do three things:

- Staff more.  High volume days (like quiencena) must have all hands on deck.  Ms. Register was providing great customer service.  However, she was under resourced.  Members were irritated by the slow check out process.

- Staff better.  A company should staff some of their best employees in places that interact with customers.  In the case of Coscto, their customer service staff consisted of mature and motivated 30 year olds.  On the other hand,  Price Smart placed mostly apathetic 20-somethings in this department.  The difference in the customer service experiences was dramatic.

- Surveys.  Price Smart should email out a quarterly/yearly member satisfaction surveys.  This would provide honest feedback from their current members about their Price Smart experience.  A simple and cheap way to improve operations.

Truth be told, frustration, rage, and hopelessness are reoccurring emotions for us Panama consumers.  Just ask anyone who has a Cable and Wireless or HSBC account, flown Air Panama/Aeropearlas, or interacted with an immigration officer at Tocumen International Airport.   Big companies and a bureaucratic government in Panama give awful customer service.

So, customer service in the USA is perfect, right?   No.   My recent return flight to Panama stopped at LAX.  Untied Airlines’ Mr. Counter Clerk was an asshole.  USA has poor customer service too.

Here is the difference:  After every flight United emails me a, “Let us know about your trip” survey.  I unloaded on the comment box.  I (the customer) have some recourse.   Something like a satisfaction survey shows that the airline giant United attempts to care about their customer’s experience.   In my 5 years as a consumer in Panama, very, very few times have I ever seen a medium or big sized company considering their customer experience.  I feel like few even know customer service exist.

One of the most compelling reasons to live in Panama is the affordability of services. It is here that I can do with my time what I wish. This luxury is not solely because I retired in June — anyone who has seen me helping Evan will question that I am retired. It is because I have services which free my time.

In Panama, I have a host of services that I can afford that would surely be too expensive for me to enjoy with regularity in Seattle. It is though I have a personal staff that I can refer to as my entourage, even though they do not travel with me — pity.

Sandra Kelly

The first service that I arranged in Panama was to be chauffeured. I have long stated that driving with me is a once in lifetime experience, since those that have had that thrill insist on driving thereafter which I gladly let them do. Driving in Panama, was out of the question for me. Traffic here is a nightmare that seemingly relies on aggressive driving and horns. I would be a nervous wreck behind the wheel. Instead I opted for taxi service from Blas. I pay Blas a monthly fee to drive me. And although, he has other customers whose other demands must be considered, I have a chauffer who knows every short cut in Panama City.

The next service that Evan insisted I have was a personal trainer. Frankly I arrived in Panama overweight and out of shape. I now begin almost everyday with exercise under the direction of a personal trainer, Andy. Andy works for Top Level Gym which is located in Casco Viejo and is just downstairs from Evan’s apartment – absolutely eliminating any excuse of inconvenience. Everyday the workout routine is varied to work different muscle groups and personally supervised by Andy. It is Andy’s supervision that guarantees that the exercises are done correctly and levels are increased as stamina improves. The results are beginning to be as dramatic as Oprah’s while training under Bob Greene! I am almost 2 full sizes down!

We also have a housekeeper. Leonarda cooks and cleans for us. I love this. We always healthy food in refrigerator that is ready to heat or serve. Moreover, our apartment is easy to keep up because it will have a thorough cleaning twice a week. I am certain this allows Evan and I to live in harmony in a small shared space. She also does our laundry!

My most indulgent luxuries include a manicurist and masseuse who come to my apartment. I am able to afford a mani/pedi from Olga twice a month in the comfort of my apartment for the cost of one in salon in the Seattle. I also schedule Clarita or Andy for a massage to work out muscle tensions. Andy I schedule every week for a chair massage as part of my fitness program. Clarita, I schedule less often, but for an hour and half full body massage. I love that she will schedule time in the evening and like Olga comes to my home. There is, perhaps, nothing as relaxing a long massage after at hot shower before curling up in bed to read a few pages. This is living!

All of this costs me less than $500 per month. And there is more! Virtually every household project is hired done — painting, electrical, tiling, and all sorts of repairs which keeps me off ladders. There is but one drawback to this all of this attention. It is “a luxury once enjoyed, becomes a necessity”. How, pray tell, how will I do without my entourage!

It was our good fortune that Leonarda accepted the job.  She is a near perfect employee.  She takes pride in her work, is easy to supervise, and gets along with co-workers.  Those qualities would be enough, but she also has a host of additional skills.

Sandra Kelly

Leonarda bakes, cooks, and sews.  She made rum cakes for guests at Xmas that were both magazine photo perfect and delicious.  She is so good, that I pay her to fix us meals that we can heat up after a long day.  Another skill is sewing which was discovered when I asked if she knew someone who could recover an old seat cushion.  “Si, I can,”  she replied proudly in English.  I immediately turned the project over to her and the results are impressive.

While shopping with Leonarda for the chair’s fabric, I was invited to visit her home.  Leonarda owns a two bedroom apartment in El Chorrillo which she is very proud of having.   Normally I would not venture into to El Chorrillo since it is considered unsafe for gringos, but I very much wanted to accept her hospitality.  We took a taxi when we completed shopping for the project’s fabric.

Leonarda’s home is in a large apartment building with a secured courtyard entry.  We walked up 2 flights of stairs and she open the door. The small space was divided into 2 bedrooms, a bath, a living room, kitchen, and utility area. The floors were cement and spotless. Indeed although the space was crowded,  the entire apartment was neat.

On the  dining table sat a sewing machine that she had used for 27 years.  It was evident she used it regularly since she had made her curtains and there was a pile of sewing projects stacked corner.  Above her sofa she had a shelf filled with family photos and trinkets. She also had an exercise bike in her living room which she uses to keep trim.  No wonder she can bake yummy desserts and stay slim!

We sat down to visit.  I am continually amazed at the level of conversations that I can have without common language.  Between Leonarda’s limited English and my limited Spanish, we talked about our families especially our bond to grand-daughters.  We talked about diet and exercise routines.  She agreed to prepare for me healthy meals.  We talked about her absolutely stunning nieces whose pictures were on her walls (I do literally mean beauty queen winners).  We even talked about being independent and self supporting women.   I was there for nearly an hour.

At the end of our visit, she and I walked to the street to secure a cab for my trip back to Casco.  I marveled on the trip back how she could accomplish so much in her limited space.  Ah, but then, she is a wonder, my friend Leonarda.

Take a look below. You’ll see a young man on your far left confused and vulnerable at Panama’s Flash Mob in Multi Plaza. That was me.

Panama Flash Mob

Seeing that photo changed my life for two reasons: First, it dashed any dreams I might have had of becoming a professional dancer. Even though I think I possess better-than-average rhythm for a white boy, this photo proved otherwise. Secondly, I realized I had became uncomfortably chubby. Too many fried empanadas and patacones had transformed my normally athleticly built body into something that resembled soft chewed bubble gum. Changed was needed.

Evan Terry Forbes

So, I started Casco’s Crossfit (Top Level Gym). My early adopter friend Dan from OfertaSimple.com had been one of the first persons to sign up with Top Level Gym when they relocated to Casco. Dan convinced me to join. “Evan, don’t make excuses. Just do it.”… So, I did.

From the beginning, I liked Crossfit’s concept: Multi joint combination anaerobic and aerobic exercises for 15-20 minutes. The routines continuously vary in order to constantly surprise your muscles. I’m in and out, and on with my day in less than 25 minutes.

My first week was rough. Muscles that I never knew existed were sore. But, by weeks two and three I began to see improvements. Most exciting to witness was that body flab started to turn firm again! In four weeks, I was in some of the best shape of my life.

In 15 minutes of Crossfit, I burn more calories than in 1 hour and 15 minutes of running. In 15 minutes of Crossfit, I’d gotten a more well rounded exercise than in an 1 hour and 15 minutes in the PowerClub.  Too many distracting fake boobs bouncing on the treadmills. Crossfit is short and works your ass out!

Casco Crossfit is not for everyone. I don’t even try to recruit my friends who are the “I’ll start working out mañana” types. Half ass commitments don’t cut it. Procrastination doesn’t let your body acclimate to the routine. Pretending to exercise by riding the elliptical machine for 27 minutes at the Powerclub or “running” once a week in Parque Omar is best for them. Crossfit doesn’t want them anyways.

See La Mama and I’s Casco Crossfit photos here.

Before leaving for Panama, I completed a dental check up.  Nothing major was considered necessary.  My teeth were cleaned and old filling replaced.  Everything else checked out.

While a taking a bite of a sandwich at Multiplaza, I felt a sharp pain as a tooth broke.  The entire front enamel section of incisor chipped off the tooth, leaving the entire inside and the nerve of the tooth exposed!   Even worst it was New Years Eve.  Not a single dentist was open for the next couple days.  So, I sat with a half broken tooth and a steady supply of Advil. There was nothing else to do.

Sandra Kelly

My next realization was that I did not know a dentist in Panama.  But I did know Mary.  She is another retiree in Panama and a maven of information.   Surely, she had a couple of names.  However, before I had a chance to contact her names, my taxi driver Blas made an appointment for me.  We were off with the dentist waiting.

We arrived at small dentist office.  It was tucked away in a strip mall in El Dorado.  Within minutes of arriving, I was seated in a dentist’s chair and greeted by Dr. Katarzyna de Sanchez.  She was assisted by a pleasant young male dental assistant.  They completed an  examination of all of my teeth and quickly determined that the broken tooth had become infected and would require a root canal.  The immediate steps were to seal off exposed surface, treat the infection, and eliminate the pain.  Mission accomplished.  I left with prescriptions and a sealant surrounding the tooth with instructions to not bite on that side of my mouth and keep to soft foods — a wonderful excuse to eat Granclement ice cream.  Holding my breath, I went with the doctor to the desk for the bill.  My hour with her was $100.  The next appointment was set.

I had 2 more appointments with Dr. Sanchez to complete the work on the root canal and build a semi-permanent cap for the tooth. Total cost of all the work done $320.  Her suggestion is that I have a porcelain crown put on the tooth.  I have decided to do that but since I am returning for a visit to Seattle, to see if my dental insurance will cover the expense.  What I am certain of, however, is the work done to date even with my insurance would have cost more than $320.

Cost, of course, is not the only consideration for dental care.  Much more important is the quality of care.  The most pleasant surprise was that I received quality care.  Dr. Sanchez spoke more than enough English for me to understand what I needed to know.  She made the entire process painless.  The temporary cap construction looks so much like a real tooth that it is undetectable.  Indeed that experience is more than enough to consider cancelling my dental insurance and opted for dental work in Panama.  Who would have guessed?

Most people take vacations at the beach.  My friend Jon (a former Peace Corps volunteer  living in NYC) had another idea. He convinced me to visit Jake’s (another former Peace Corps member) farm:

Jon: “Evan, lets get outta the city.”
Evan: “Where do you wanna go?”
Jon: “Wanna do some farming with Jake?”
Evan: “Hmmm… Sure.”
Jon: “Vamos pues!”

Evan Terry Forbes

Jake had been working on a special type of reforestation project in Panama’s Azuero Pennisula. It had been a long time since the 3 of us had shot the shit together.

Jon and Jake are different from most Gringos in Panama.  They speak excellent Panamanian Spanish.  They are also incredibly knowledgeable about tropical ecology.  Lastly and most impressively, they both comprehend the various and complex cultural nuisances of Panamanian society better than 98.7% of the Gringos in Panama.  They’re Pana-Gringos.

Jon and I arrived to Albrook Bus Terminal at 6am.   The bus ticket for the 5 hour trip to Las Tablas cost $9.75.  It didn’t make sense to rent a car.

At Las Tablas we transferred buses.  But before we did, Jon knew of a great local eat.  The family style restaurant was self-seating with a limited menu.  Basically, the waitress tells you what kitchen is cooking — take it or leave it (my kinda restaurant).  $5 covered our meal.  Parts of Panama are still bien barato.

With full bellys we boarded the next buscito heading to Pedasí.  There, we fetched a cab for the remaining 20-minute ride to Jake’s pueblito in Los Asientos.    We asked the others on the bus what the approximate charge for the cab needed to take us the rest of the way would be.  The consensus cost among the locals was $6.75.  Later, the taxi driver repeated the same price.  I love the feeling of NOT being treated like a tourist.

Los Asientos is on few people’s maps.  The small pueblito sits just about an hour’s horse ride beyond Pedasí (the mode of transportation for many).  The few Panamanian city folks and foreigners that do recognize Los Asientos are likely to do so only because their cell phones lose signal while driving towards Playa Venao.  Los Asientos is definitely not a tourist destination.

Jake was walking towards his house when we arrived.  He looked like he had spent the entire day at the farm.  His traditional Santeño sombrero was soaked with sweat.  His was wearing an old long sleeve Oxford shirt and full length pants to protect against the sun. On his feet were a hefty set of work boots with tiny plant seedlings clinging here and there.   Jon and Jake exchanged Santeño “AJUUUEEEE!!” yelps.  I’m still practicing mine.

First things first,  Jake popped the top off a couple cervezas bien frias.  We caught up with each other’s life happenings as we sat on Jake’s small front porch.  Children on bikes and men on horseback occasionally passed by.  A complete change from the city.

Eventually, our conversation centered on the general macro reforestation effort throughout Panama.  Both Jon and Jake have several years of elite schooling focused on development studies as well as several years of swinging machetes on Panamanian farms.  It was a highly educated discussion.

After a couple beers, Jon and I now wanted to see an actual project.  We were there to experience the reforestation effort at the micro level. Jake had been working closely with a local farmer on his 2 hecture cattle pasture.   It was a demo plot to show the skeptics in the area the benefits of agroforestry.  Jon grabbed the sunscreen and I enthusiastically carried the machete.  We set out to see Jake’s project.

We walked for about 30 minutes.  Along the way, Jon and Jake described the state of Azuero. The rare tropical dry forest has been severely deforested by extensive clear cutting and intensive cattle ranching.   The native ecosystems and the biodiversity of the area have been nearly wiped out.  Jake has been working with local farmers to implement silvopastor systems.  Arguably, it’s the best chance to reforest the Azuero.

A silvopastoral system integrates trees into cattle pasture systems in a mutually beneficial way.  Semi reforesting lands utilizing beneficial forage and fodder species in living fences and inside pastures,  more efficient rotation of grazing lands will start to restore lost ecosystems.  Cattle are still able to graze. And, in more productive systems that provide not just the calories of pasture grass, but also proteins from tree leaves and fruits.  As a result the cattle have an improved diet which increases fertility as well as meat and milk production.  Furthermore, increasing trees on degraded landscapes restore invaluable ecosystem services.    Bottomline: It’s a win-win situation for the farmers and the environment.

Even though silvopastoral systems seem sensible, implementation is difficult.  Farmers are resistant to change.   Remember, traditionally, farmers view the forest as their adversary.  Generations of back breaking hours have been spent clear cutting those hillsides.  A deforested pasture is a sign of victory.  An overgrown pasture is seen as not keeping your land “limpio” (well maintained).  You’re an embarrassment inside the community.   Yet, today, international organizations are trying to tell farmers to…. replant them?  Estas loco!

To compound the cultural misunderstanding, there is an unusual language barrier.   City boy Spanish spoken by a urban Panamanian championing the sustainability of silvopastoral systems won’t sell to local farmers. Ivy-League American interns are even worse.   Local farmers don’t culturally identify with them or find them credible.  As Jake summarized ,“Evan, not enough people speak Santeño nor understand the traditional and cultural constraints of implementing development projects.”.  This fact is often overlooked inside the international development ivory tower.

*** Santeño is a person from Los Santos.

On the other hand, Jake is Santeño.  Sure, Jake is a Gringo who earned a prestigious masters degree in Forestry.  Yet, Jake chooses to live amongst the locals (instead of the highly populated Gringo areas of Pedasí and the nearby beaches). Jake walks, talks, and acts like a Santeño.  He has locals sharing the latest Los Asientos gossip with him as well as picking him up while he is hitchhiking along the highway.  I’ll say it again, my boy Jake is Santeño.

This is apparent in Jake’s silvopastoral sales pitch to Santeños: “En su sistema convencional, con solamente pasto mejorado su ganado están comiendo arroz pela’o. Con un sistema silvopastoril con leucaena, botón de oro y pasto mejorado, su ganado están comiendo un plato completo (el arroz, la presa, lentejas, y plátanos fritos). Como nosotros, el ganado quiere comer bien también.”

(In your conventional system, with only improved pasture,  your cattle are eating plain rice. With a silvopastoral system with Leucaena, Mexican sunflower, and improved pasture, your cattle are eating a complete meal (rice, the dam, lentils, and fried plantains). Like us, the cattle need to eat well too.)

People are taking notice of Jake’s work. Silvopastoral systems are out performing surrounding pastures.   The farmer who volunteered for the project can’t wait to bring his cattle to graze.  Former skeptics are now asking Jake for agricultural advise during conversations at the local tienda.  Jon and I are excited to see our boy doing such a good job!

See photos of the trip here.

Casco Viejo is an exceptionally diverse neighborhood.  Within an area of 12 blocks there are the very wealthy  and the very poor, living next door to each other.  Since the Presidential Office and several embassys are located in Casco, it is the hub of the very powerful and yet its streets are filled with forgotten souls.  There are expats from Europe, Canada, and the United States, and those who have never travel outside this neighborhood.  There are persons with white skin, black skin, and every hue in between.  There are the very old and the very young.  There are beautifully restored colonial  buildings with modern conveniences and buildings that passing time left in rumble.  There are pedigreed pampered pets and too many stray dogs and cats to count.  Street vendors sell food from carts within feet of some of Panama’s best restaurants.  Presidential guards and police make the area secure but there are vagrants whose claim to abandoned buildings and streets still remains.  It is an area with one of the most significant histories in all of Latin America and an area that currently is most threatened by Panama’s quest for new importance.  I love this place!!!

Sandra Kelly

One of the things that I love most is the people of Casco.  As I walk from place to place,  I exchange greetings with almost all that I pass and hugs from those that I have met.  Rarely do I sit more than moments alone in cafe before I am joined by someone who will visit awhile. I exchange pleasantries with the police on the street, most of whom now recognize me.  Blaine at Super Gourmet calls me “Mumsy” and my name or Mama is called out several times a day.  Indeed there is now a workman that blows me a kiss when I am out walking and another who chats about his work because I remarked that building he is painting has become beautiful.  And there is Danny, a young Panamanian contractor,  who when he drives by offers me a ride and promises to invite me for dinner.

The friendliness that I encounter each day is not surprising.  So many of the expats that I have met in Panama chose Panama because of its people.  Most are welcoming and will listen intently as those of us with few words in Spanish attempt to be understood.   What, however, was surprising, was to be cared for when in need from those I had only exchanged a few greetings.

I arrived in Panama exhausted from weeks, no months, of going non-stop.  I also hit the ground running here in order to keep up with my 27 year old son.  Climate, time zone, and living arrangements  were huge adjustments.  There were projects that Evan had lined up for me to begin with short deadlines.  I also moved 3 times the first week.  One evening all of this impact hit.  Mid way through a delicious dinner, I felt flush.  I walked outside hoping it was merely climate adjustment.  I felt nauseated.  In a blink,  things went from bad to worst, I was shaking and could barely hold my head up.  It was that so sick feeling that praying to die makes sense.  I did not want to make a scene or call for help.

Then the most surprising thing happened.  Two men , Mario and Enrique, who spend their evenings on the streets on Casco, came over to check on me.  Mario quietly sat down next to me.  Enrique who speaks English attempted to determine what was the matter. I was too sick to speak and was becoming more ill with each passing minute.  Quietly without asking Mario left me in search of my son which required him to enter a restaurant where it likely he is not welcome.  Enrique continued to be my guard and assure me help was on the way.  Mario returned with Evan and Blas (my driver).  They drove me quickly home but very nearly took me to the hospital first which I refused simply because I did not want to move.

So many of us make judgements with a lack of understanding and without compassion.  I have no knowledge of Mario’s or Enrique’s live circumstances or events.  What I do know is that both men are considerate and honorable.  I was easy prey who was most fortunate to have two exceptional men of character come to my aid.  They will forever be mis amigos.